It’s the pungent notes of ginger, vanilla and cloves that triggered my attention. The cookies’ crunchy texture with subtle aromas of nutmeg and ginger make it hard to resist. Like Italians’ who enjoy their much loved fruit bread, pannetone at Christmas, so Estonians hunt out homemade gingerbread cookies.
December is one of the best times of the year to experience the variety of aromas around us. Yet in the age of digital photography and smart phones, we are so immersed in technology and sharing, that our attention is focused on the presentation instead of smells. Could it be that aromas are slowly becoming secondary, even irrelevant in our daily lives? I surely hope not. Having been born into a family of chefs I would like to take you on a culinary and describe the aromas I believe Estonia embodies: from musky juniper to smoky sausage.
Rudyard Kipling once said: “The first condition of understanding a foreign country is to smell it.” Scents, like photographs, are powerful in evoking emotions of childhood, places and precious memories. One of my all time favourite spices, cinnamon, provokes vivid memories of my late grandma, and her luscious signature cake, a fruit bread loaf called kringel. Similar to brioche and panettone, kringel is best enjoyed when warm and served with tea or coffee. Nowadays, both my mother and myself bake the bread to keep the family traditions alive, and appreciate the scents and tastes of homemade food.
On my way to a friend’s place near Oleviste chapel in the Old Town I am seduced by a variety of aromas. The notes of nutty and sweet roasted almonds tempt me from around the corner. I shake my head to the waitress with a subtle smile and head towards the Town Square where our annual Christmas Market takes place.
The scene that awakens my senses makes feel as if I am on the Chocolate film set. Anyone seen Johnny Depp yet? Thought not.
Its late afternoon, the sky is violet blue and the market is lit by an array of sparkling lights. As I absorb the atmosphere of the buzzing square, a cacophony of fruity smells catches my palette from subtle marzipan to earthy spruce. Couples stroll hand in hand, small groups of curious tourists chat amongst themselves whilst deciding which mulled wine to try whilst children are squealing around the tall Christmas tree, waiting in line to see Santa Claus.
Those of you who are familiar with Estonia or have visited the country previously, may have recognise a rare, almost sweet wood (similar to pine) scent whilst in souvenir shops. It’s a unique and small tree called juniper that grows on the two biggest islands in Estonia, Hiiumaa and Saaremaa. Every time I smell juniper’s sharp woody scent I am taken aback to my first excursion with grandma to Hiiumaa. Known as a popular material for making natural souvenirs such as tankards and butter knives, juniper berries are also used for producing gin and medicine.
If you really want to know what Estonia smells like, I suggest heading out of the central. The closest to Tallinn are Nõmme and Pirita forest, which I think are the capital’s hidden gems. Since I can remember I have enjoyed wandering with my grandma on her daily walks to the local forest. Thanks to her I learnt to appreciate the refreshing and the peaceful nature all around us. I think Estonian’s best kept secret, however are its peatbogs. One of my favourite bogs is Meenikunno, located in the southeastern Estonia, close to the border with Latvia. The best time to visit it would be late spring when nature has awakened and flowers have sprung.
At home, the wonderful almost sweet aromas of dill catch my palette. Similar to India’s herb coriander and basil in Italy, Estonians are fond of sprinkling dill over boiled potatoes, salads and sauces.
Also making homemade bread has grown in popularity. Nowadays, even local manufactures hold annual competitions for the nation’s favourite bread recipe. Having lived many years abroad, nothing brought me closer to home than rye bread black as coal with its sharp notes of linseed and sunflower seeds. The other delicious food that fills my suitcase every time I leave Estonia is a local smoky, peppery pork sausage that everyone who tries falls in love with.
There are several ways introducing as well as exploring a country. Here I did it in baby steps and through smells I sense daily. For me it was a luscious journey filled with childhood memories and subtle and sweet aromas. I sincerely hope I opened up your senses and curiosity for my small yet wonderful Baltic country, Estonia.